Y/Project Scoops 2017 ANDAM Fashion Award – WWD
Y OH Y: Y/Project’s rising star just ascended a notch higher with the Paris-based label — a key player in Paris’ new guard — scooping the 2017 ANDAM Fashion Award at a ceremony here Friday, on the eve of couture week in Paris.
The award’s endowment of $280,000 comes at a crucial time for the brand as it moves into its next phase, with new factory partners among recent developments.
The brand’s creative director Glenn Martens, who grew up in the Belgian city of Bruges and attended Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, but is now based in Paris, made fashion fame with his deconstructed denim that can be ruched or folded back to create a wader effect. The designer likes to tumble together disparate references, from classical tailoring to streetwear to offbeat historical references. A master at using deconstruction techniques to create new garments, signatures include exaggerated swirling volumes, though his latest collection was more controlled in its execution.
For one year, Martens will also benefit from a mentorship by Francesca Bellettini, president and chief executive officer of Yves Saint Laurent, covering both the creative and strategic dimensions of his business.
The designer will also be sprinkled with 10,000 euros’ worth of crystals from Swarovski to be used within the year following his fellowship.
This year’s Creative Label prize — worth $112,000 — went to Avoc, which will receive a year’s worth of mentoring on its digital and communication strategy from Ruth Chapman, cofounder and co-executive chairman of Matchesfashion.com, as well as mentoring sessions from the buyer teams of Galeries Lafayette on better understanding the department stores’ expectations in terms of collections and merchandising. The retailer will also buy the brand’s next two collections, giving it prime placement in its Paris flagship store space dedicated to young creation.
The Accessories Design Prize, which comes with a grant of $56,000, went to Brazilian jewelry designer Ana Khouri.
Scooping the event’s new prize fashion innovation, worth $33,000, was smart mannequins specialist Euveka.
A 25-member jury composed of fashion executives, editors, actresses and models selected the victors, with Chapman, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, and Pascal Morand, executive president of La Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.
ANDAM is financially supported by 17 private and institutional partners. The grand prize is open to designers of any nationality willing to establish a business in France. The French acronym for the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts, ANDAM was founded in 1989 by Nathalie Dufour, with the support of the French government and with Pierre Bergé as president. ANDAM has been a springboard for an array of designers who would go on to achieve international recognition, including Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Christophe Lemaire and Jeremy Scott.
Last year’s winner, Johanna Senyk of Wanda Nylon, received two years of mentoring from Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, president and chief executive officer of Chloé.