Add to the list Slash (whose signature look owes much to Mr. Bolanâs portrait on the cover of the 1972 album âThe Sliderâ), St. Vincent, James Bagshaw of the rock outfit Temples (a spit and image), and Johnny Depp in the âAliceâ films. Generally speaking, though, the man behind glam rock is largely shrouded in obscurity, while Bowie is hailed as its poster boy.
Born Mark Feld into a Jewish family in London, Mr. Bolan always knew he wanted to be famous. First, he did it with solely with style, appearing in Mod outfits in magazine spreads and cardboard cutouts in department stores; later on, in the early â70s, he did it with his band T. Rex. Widely credited with pioneering the glam rock movement, Mr. Bolan, with his corkscrew hair, sparkly makeup and flamboyant outfits, defined an era of glitter and gobbledygook, though he never broke through in America.
âA lot of fashion designers reference him today,â said Oriole Cullen, senior fashion and textiles curator at the Victoria & Albert Museum. âYou can really see that again and again. For instance, at YSL when Hedi Slimane was there, with the chunky platforms, baby-doll dresses, the snakeskin jackets.â
According to Ms. Cullen, a host of other designers has also been influenced by the man once widely known as the âbopping impâ (Mr. Bolan was less than 5 feet 6 inches tall). His influence can be seen in the glittery space boots of the Saint Laurent fall 2017 collection, the lush red velvet trousers in Anna Suiâs fall 2017 show and coruscating jackets and vivid patterned flares in Balmainâs spring 2017 collections. (A Guardian article explicitly mentioned Mr. Bolan as an influence on Topmanâs fall 2016 collection.)
There also is Michael Halpern, a New Yorker whose debut during London Fashion Week in February was heralded for its use of glitter fabrics and wide-flared trousers, and Paula Knorr, a recent graduate of Royal College of Art in London, with a liking for lamÃ© and what Ms. Cullen called âwider flowing shapes.â
And Gucciâs current interstellar ad campaign, featuring ornate, shimmering jackets Ã la Bolan with wide lapels and sequins, has the T. Rex song âBallrooms of Marsâ written all over it.
Paul Smith, another Bolan fan, explained why. âMarc Bolanâs look was always incredibly theatrical,â he said. To the London designer, things have changed for the worse: âSadly, it seems to me that there is almost no theater left in popular music. Lots of skinny jeans, T-shirts and short haircuts.â
The most overt example of Mr. Bolanâs continued influence in fashion, however, can be seen in the designs of John Varvatos. A self-described âbig fanâ of the rocker, Mr. Varvatosâs T-shirts often have displayed Mr. Bolanâs image, and the designer has âdefinitelyâ hung posters of the rocker in his studio.
For Mr. Varvatos, the rocker has been a longtime source of inspiration. âIn menâs wear, especially, style isnât just about the individual pieces â itâs really about how you put your whole look together,â Mr. Varvatos said, noting that Mr. Bolan âdid this in a unique way that became his own, a hallmark.â
Itâs easy to imagine that, had he lived, Mr. Bolan would have had a permanent place in the front row of every fashion week show. As Zowie Broach, head of fashion at the Royal College of Art and a co-founder and designer of the brand Boudicca, said, he âwould have been deeply adored today and would have adored fashion today.â
All of us whose wardrobes are in his debt should remember.