New York Fashion Week Fall 2017: Jeremy Scott – Forbes
Jeremy Scott has always been a firecrackerâunafraid to flaunt the most outlandish collections as the creative director of Moschino and his eponymous line. But when he took his finale walk down the fur runway after showcasing his fall 2017 collection, the fire in his eyes was one ready to fight.
âFun,â the umbrella adjective most associated with Scottâs aesthetic, turned into a vehicle for social and political commentary. âFunnyâ turned into black humor, a twisted kind of mourning for (or lash back at) the current American administration.
âMy country is in the toilet. And when my country is in the toilet, the world is in the toilet,â he explained to Vogue. âWe have to fight for everything we believe in. Thatâs the expression I wanted to use.â
His unequivocal message followed on the heels of Moschinoâs military-inspired fall menswear show a week prior that featured camouflage pants, bullet belts, and battle graphics from Transformersâa literal fighting connotation.
In Jeremy-land, simplicity and subtlety rarely exist. Aesthetically, more is more, and his message was equally multi-dimensional.
Supermodel-of-the-moment Gigi Hadid opened the show with the face of Jesus printed on the crotch of her velvet pants. As if the audience had seen the real savior emerge from the wings, everyone held their breath and scrambled for their phones. The Christ motif appeared in various other forms in the 60-piece collection, as a baby cradled by Madonna and bedazzled on tops and trousersâalmost objectifying the models themselves as souvenirs of worship.
Scott also paid homage to sartorial highlights of American historyâespecially rural America. Hadidâs second look was all-white bedazzled leather ensemble embellished with country fringe. Hippie patchwork gave a nod to 60s counterculture and the sexual revolutionâmost explicitly in a âsex is cuteâ graphic t-shirt.
Other God-like symbols, such as gold beaded Cleopatra wigs and Shiva-style headdresses, made their way down the runway to the soundtrack of campy western tunesâan ode to how cultural and religious diversity are what make âThe Melting Potâ great.
In addition to Hadid, Victoriaâs Secret Angels Alanna Arrington and Jasmine Tookes, among others, walked in the show donned in sartorial symbolism of Michael Jackson and Elvis symbolismâtwo pop icons that people almost worship in a God-like fashion, though they both had equal vices as they did virtues. Jesus is also a figure of (often blind) devotion, for better or for worse. Scottâs commentary on idol worship extends to electing a celebrity into the presidency. (In fact, a few t-shirts boasted graphics of gluttonous pigs, one with the words, âJesus loves me.â
Victoriaâs Secret Angel Stella Maxwell closed the show in a head-to-toe rhinestone ensemble with a studded âAS SEEN ON TVâ top. The same phrase was printed onto the red bags placed on each front-row seat, indicative that the glitz and glamour are only façades for show.
Scottâs collection was ultimately a call to stand up and speak out. Every front-of-house worker at the show sported a Scott-designed t-shirt emblazoned with âOUR VOICE IS THE ONLY THING THAT WILL PROTECT US.â The backs listed every Senate representativeâs phone number, galvanizing people to take action.
Just as protesters have chanted during recent marches, Scottâs show was âwhat democracy looks like.â Scottâs response to the impending crackdown on libertiesâespecially for women, immigrants, people of color and diverse sexual orientationsâwas to use his platform to express extreme creative freedom.
As the kids say these days, âitâs litââand a âlitâ show it was because Scott was lighting the way. If Yeezyâs Kanye West aims to run and Donald Trump can win, perhaps there could be a Jeremy Scott 2020, as well.
Follow Karen on Twitter @k_hua.