New York Fashion Week Fall 2017: Jeremy Scott – Forbes

Jeremy Scott has always been a firecracker—unafraid to flaunt the most outlandish collections as the creative director of Moschino and his eponymous line. But when he took his finale walk down the fur runway after showcasing his fall 2017 collection, the fire in his eyes was one ready to fight.

“Fun,” the umbrella adjective most associated with Scott’s aesthetic, turned into a vehicle for social and political commentary. “Funny” turned into black humor, a twisted kind of mourning for (or lash back at) the current American administration.

“My country is in the toilet. And when my country is in the toilet, the world is in the toilet,” he explained to Vogue. “We have to fight for everything we believe in. That’s the expression I wanted to use.”

His unequivocal message followed on the heels of Moschino’s military-inspired fall menswear show a week prior that featured camouflage pants, bullet belts, and battle graphics from Transformers—a literal fighting connotation.

In Jeremy-land, simplicity and subtlety rarely exist. Aesthetically, more is more, and his message was equally multi-dimensional.

Supermodel-of-the-moment Gigi Hadid opened the show with the face of Jesus printed on the crotch of her velvet pants. As if the audience had seen the real savior emerge from the wings, everyone held their breath and scrambled for their phones. The Christ motif appeared in various other forms in the 60-piece collection, as a baby cradled by Madonna and bedazzled on tops and trousers—almost objectifying the models themselves as souvenirs of worship.

Scott also paid homage to sartorial highlights of American history—especially rural America. Hadid’s second look was all-white bedazzled leather ensemble embellished with country fringe. Hippie patchwork gave a nod to 60s counterculture and the sexual revolution—most explicitly in a “sex is cute” graphic t-shirt.

Other God-like symbols, such as gold beaded Cleopatra wigs and Shiva-style headdresses, made their way down the runway to the soundtrack of campy western tunes—an ode to how cultural and religious diversity are what make “The Melting Pot” great.

In addition to Hadid, Victoria’s Secret Angels Alanna Arrington and Jasmine Tookes, among others, walked in the show donned in sartorial symbolism of Michael Jackson and Elvis symbolism—two pop icons that people almost worship in a God-like fashion, though they both had equal vices as they did virtues. Jesus is also a figure of (often blind) devotion, for better or for worse. Scott’s commentary on idol worship extends to electing a celebrity into the presidency. (In fact, a few t-shirts boasted graphics of gluttonous pigs, one with the words, â€œJesus loves me.”

Victoria’s Secret Angel Stella Maxwell closed the show in a head-to-toe rhinestone ensemble with a studded “AS SEEN ON TV” top. The same phrase was printed onto the red bags placed on each front-row seat, indicative that the glitz and glamour are only façades for show.

Scott’s collection was ultimately a call to stand up and speak out. Every front-of-house worker at the show sported a Scott-designed t-shirt emblazoned with “OUR VOICE IS THE ONLY THING THAT WILL PROTECT US.” The backs listed every Senate representative’s phone number, galvanizing people to take action.

Just as protesters have chanted during recent marches, Scott’s show was “what democracy looks like.” Scott’s response to the impending crackdown on liberties—especially for women, immigrants, people of color and diverse sexual orientations—was to use his platform to express extreme creative freedom.

As the kids say these days, “it’s lit”—and a “lit” show it was because Scott was lighting the way. If Yeezy’s Kanye West aims to run and Donald Trump can win, perhaps there could be a Jeremy Scott 2020, as well.

Follow Karen on Twitter @k_hua.


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