Fashion, politics and feminism: Women’s magazines find new winning formula – The Mercury News
The latest issue of Glamour offers up some of the expected glossy-magazine advice for young women: make-up tips for springÂ and a fashionÂ spread on bold, colorful looks for work and going out at night.
But the issue also addresses theÂ gender pay gap and activism on gun control, reproductive health and the environment. The cover story, moreover, showcases singer Alicia Keys, radiant in her new sans-makeupÂ look.
And the Keys’ storyÂ doesnât dwell on the Grammy winner’sÂ new album or backstage gossip about âThe Voice.â It focuses on how KeysÂ is inspired by Nina Simone and other politically engaged performers to meld her art with her commitment to racial justice and gender equality..
âThey totally go together,â she says.
Similarly, you could say seemingly disparate topics — fashion, beautyÂ and political engagement — go together these days in todayâs mainstream magazines geared towards teen and young women.
In fact, if you check out recent issues of Glamour, Teen Vogue, Cosmopolitan,Â Elle or Marie Claire — or better yet, their almost hourlyÂ updated websites — you might think you had stumbled onto outlets populated by Slate-ish news and politics junkies.
For a variety of reasons, popular womenâs magazines, long associated with makeup and relationship advice, are getting topical and embracing an unapologetic feministÂ agenda.
One reason, of course, is the contentious 2016 presidential election, which pitted Hillary Clinton, the first woman to head a major political party, against Donald Trump, whom many feminists regard as the ultimate male chauvinist.
But theÂ shift also reflects broader trends in the growing market power of news-savvy millennials, as well as aÂ digital age resurgence of feminism, both as an identity and as a movement, says Marcie Bianco, managing editor at Stanford Universityâs Clayman Institute for Gender Research.
âThanks to Facebook and social media, womenâs magazines quicklyÂ realized that including more feminist commentary and analysis was not just âon trend’ — it was critical to remaining relevant and to their continued future,â she says.
GlamourÂ Executive Editor Wendy NaugleÂ said her magazine, which reaches 10 million readers in print and 15 million online, wasn’t necessarily doing anything new this election year.Â The magazine, published since 1939, has always strived to tellÂ its female readers — and of all partisanÂ stripes,Â she notes — how politics affect their lives, she said.
But she agrees that this “personal is political” approach, advocated byÂ second-wave feminism of the 1970s,Â took on added urgency this year when many readersÂ became invested in the idea ofÂ ClintonÂ shattering the nation’s highest glass ceiling.
âI think the possibility of the first woman president was obviously very important to our readership,â Naugle said. âMaybe thatâs why people are noticing (our political coverage) more because they were feeling this election in personal ways.â
This increased coverage inÂ women’s magazines became a hot media topic inÂ December when Teen Vogue published a âscorched-earthâ commentary titled âDonald Trump Is Gaslighting America.â
The piece by writer Lauren Duca posited that the president habitually puts forthÂ falsehoods toÂ undermine his criticsâ ability to trust their own judgment and hold him accountable. Within days, Lucaâs piece was retweeted more than 30,000 times and viewed more than 1.2 million. It also won praise from a variety of personalities, including veteran newsman Dan Rather.
On his Facebook page, Rather described Teen Vogue, launched in 2004 as an offshoot of Conde Nast powerhouse Vogue, as one of journalismâs âsurprising new sources of serious reporting.â
— Teen Vogue (@TeenVogue) December 10, 2016
The piece garnered more readers than the magazineâs second-most read post of the year: âHow to Apply Glitter Nail Polish the Right Way.” In an interview with NPR, the magazineâs editor-in-chiefÂ Elaine Welteroth and digital editorial director Phillip Picardi said they came into their current jobs in the past year with the mandate to boost circulation. Welteroth, like most editors, isÂ tight-lipped about specific editorial objectives, but the magazine revealedÂ their traffic had increasedÂ 208 percent in the previous 18 months to hit close toÂ 10 million unique viewers in November.
âI think Teen Vogue did an incredible job in that beauty and fashion space for young women,â Welteroth told NPR. âBut I think we all kind of came around the table and said, we have to mean more to our girls. Why are we here today?â
In many ways,Â Teen VogueÂ and other outletsÂ are simply doing what women’s magazines have always done best: identify trends and disseminateÂ them to readers.
This new emphasis on serious news reportingÂ actually marks a return to women’s magazines’ traditionalÂ purpose, says Bianco. “Feminist activists have always turned to media â firstÂ print and, now, digitalâ to cultivate their voices, share their opinions, and foster feminist dialogue and community across the nation,” she says.
ThisÂ tradition goes back to the late 1860sÂ whenÂ suffragettes Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton published âThe Revolution.” The newspaper covered aÂ variety of topics, includingÂ fashion andÂ relationships, but in a combative way: criticizing womenâs long, heavy dresses orÂ the practice of women promising to âobeyâ during marriage ceremonies.
Fast forward to the early 1960s when magazines started toÂ appeal to young women trying to moveÂ out of traditional homemaker roles.Â TheÂ now-defunct Mademoiselle published excerpts of âThe Feminine Mystique,â Betty Friedanâs landmark book repudiating those roles.Â Two years later, Helen Gurley Brown took control of Cosmopolitan and told her single, career-focused readers to own their sexuality. Then in 1972, investigative journalist Gloria Steinem co-founded Ms. Magazine, with the female-led publication producing some of the first major stories about back-alley abortions, domestic violence and sexual harassment.
But womenâs magazines shrunk from hard-hitting coverageÂ followingÂ the 1982 failure of the Equal Rights Amendment, Bianco said.Â Similarly, theÂ term feminism becameÂ the “f-word”Â during the Reagan years and into the 1990s. Conservative voicesÂ asserted control over the discourse around women’s issues — theÂ societalÂ “Backlash” described by Susan Faludi in herÂ acclaimedÂ 1991 book.
Aside from Ms., women’s magazines largely stayed away from politics. Only publications geared to specific communities, such as Essence, a lifestyle magazine for African-American women, kept up serious commentary, Bianco said. If mainstream publications delved into pro-women topics,Â it was with a pop-culture, âgirl powerâÂ approachÂ that Andi Zeisler, co-founder of the formerly Oakland-based Bitch Media, labeled âmarketplace feminism.”
In the digital age,Â mainstream print publications struggled, butÂ scrappy online publications like Jezebel, Bustle and xoJane flourishedÂ by reviving feminist commentary withÂ blog-like personal takes around social issues.Â These sites and newerÂ ones, like Broadly, Refinery20 or the Skimm, discovered that their female millennial readers wereÂ avid news consumers.
The 2015 report, âMedia Insight Project,â found that 69 percent of the some 1,000 18- to 34-year-old adults surveyed read the news daily, almost exclusivelyÂ via online sources. Sixty-five percent said keeping up with news and world events ranked as high for online activity as researching hobbies, and ahead of shopping, researchingÂ restaurants and entertainment, and playing games.
The report also noted that female millennials — college educated, employed and single — were especially keen on following social issues, health care and education. The 2016 election cycle pushed politics and feminism front and center into their concerns, Bianco and others say.
With all these factors, it has made “literal cents” for mainstream magazines to take stock of their future, Bianco said. “To that end,Â womenâs magazines have begun to include prominent feminist voices in both their print and digital mastheads, she said.
For example,Â Cosmopolitan was eager to prove it was about more than “fashion and shopping and lipstick,” as editor in chief Joanna Coles said to the Columbia Journalism Review. It brought in feminist writers likeÂ Jill FilopovicÂ andÂ Prachi Gupta. The latter, now a senior writer for Jezebel, made news when she was one of the first journalists to challenge Ivanka Trump on the idea that her fatherâs proposed parentalÂ leave policy wasÂ boon toÂ regular families.
âThis change within mastheads reflectsÂ a profound cultural shift in America that we have not seen since the 1960s,” Bianco said.
But whereÂ this shift leadsÂ remains to be seen, especially in a post-Women’s March era. Magazines will continue to try and work out the best way to stay in business. InÂ November, Teen Vogue announced it was reducing its number of print issues from nine to four a year, but beefing up its digital content, including its political coverage.
Glamour will continue to publish stories on social issues, politics and activism becauseÂ itÂ knows readers want those stories, Naugle said.Â âBased on what weâre hearing from women,” she said, “so many people are organizing and donât want these issues to fall by the wayside.”